Hidden Rome: Walking Tours of 3 Under-the-Radar Locations

arthur elgort vogue december 1994
Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, December 1994

Roma: Lighting up your travel list since 753 BC. But sometimes it feels as though the must-visit spots haven’t changed much since then. There’s certainly nothing wrong with a visit to the Colosseum (in fact, you’d be quite remiss to skip it) but next time, try these three micro-tours—one quite ancient, one modern, and one foodie-focused—to explore some Roman gems we doubt you’ve ever seen.

largo di torre argentina

Photo: Courtesy of Roma-Antiqua.de

1. Area: Largo di Torre Argentina

Located in the heart of the historical district—a pietra’s throw away from the Tiber River, this rectangular pit is easy to breeze by (its still-mysterious ruins are only identified as Temples A, B, C, and D). But for the feline-friendly amongst us, it (somewhat shockingly) houses the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, an orphanage that would make Audrey Hepburn proud. From there, wander down Via di Sant’Anna (stopping by the charming Caffè Camerino for a cappuccino if needed) to Antico Forno Roscioli, one of the best spots in town for authentic yet inventive pizza al taglio. La bufala (water buffalo mozzarella) is divine, and be sure to add a traditional baked good or two to your order. For dinner later stasera, snag a reservation at Forno’s big brother, Roscioli—a gourmet deli of cheeses and meats on top, and a delizioso restaurant-cum-wine-cellar below. Does the Roscioli one-two-punch sounds like too much? Head up and around to Via dei Barbieri to Renato e Luisa—another great dinner bet. The loop you’ve most likely just been forced to wind traces the outline of the Theatre of Pompey—near where Julius Caesar was assassinated. That ruin itself may no longer exist, but centuries of building on top of the now-covered site have immortalized its location in the curving streets and facades. An urban-planning buried treasure—just avoid it on the Ides!

Salumeria Roscioli

Photo: Courtesy of Salumeria Roscioli

2. Area: San Lorenzo

Filled with artist studios and students, thanks to the nearby University, La Sapienza, this area is teeming with up-and-coming yet often-overlooked activity. Start out at Said—the self-proclaimed oldest chocolate factory in Rome. In business since 1923, the industrial factory space now houses a chocolate shop and restaurant, extending into nooks and crannies with chic-yet-cozy decor. Hot cocoa may be its specialty, and is difficult to resist with its signature chocolate-coated glass. Craving real food? Head around the corner to I Porchettoni, one of the best places in Rome to grab a bite of the traditional Roman style of roasted pork. But if you’re a die-hard fan of NYC’s very own Porchetta, make it a true pilgrimage and head over to Er Buchetto—one of Porchetta chef and cofounder Sara Jenkins’s original inspirations for her East Village haunt. Before you leave Via dei Marrucini for the Termini area, make sure to glance across the street at Parrocchia San Tommaso Moro. This jewel-box church won’t be on standard tours, but is a site you’ll be hard-pressed to forget.

roman church

Photo: Michael de la Cruz

3. Area: Testaccio and beyond

Testaccio is now a hip neighborhood partially due to its nightclub scene. However, its signature artificial hill tells a rich history of labor and trade. The hill is made up of 25–50 million broken amphora (vestiges of this port’s high-volume fish and oil business), and the amount of pottery itself is a sight to behold. Glance forward, and you’ll find yourself at MACRO Testaccio, a contemporary museum of art housed in a former slaughterhouse. (Grim, yes. But wonderful art!) Loving the change from the usual Renaissance and Baroque paintings? Head over to the main half of this museum for Roman artists, the Studio Odile Decq–designed flagship location, MACRO. For the grand finale—and to complete the trifecta—MAXXI is a must-see. Zaha Hadid’s “Museum for the Twenty-First Century” is as futuristic as they come, just waiting for the rest of Rome to catch up.