Everywhere You Should Go in Canggu, Bali’s Bohemian Hideaway

Sunset surf at Batu Bolong
Sunset surf at Batu BolongPhoto: Courtesy of Elizabeth Peng

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Bali always delivers—be it sunshine, spirituality, or surf. Even the air of the place, also known as the “Island of the Gods,” seems to be filled with a palpable magic among the jungles, active volcanoes, jagged cliffs, and coral reefs. This is a place that lured travelers and spiritual seekers to its shores long before the island was popularized by the film adaptation of Elizabeth Gilbert’s memoir Eat, Pray, Love. Out here in the Indian Ocean, nestled between Lombok to the East and Java to the West (where Indonesia’s capital of Jakarta is), there’s something for everyone, from the cultural heart of inland Ubud to the awe-inspiring beaches of southern Ungasan and Uluwatu.

But even the best of Bali can suffer from fatigue, especially around the colossal resorts of mass Kuta or the splashy scene of upscale Seminyak. Which is why, further west in Canggu, an antidote has fast emerged: a bohemian hideaway—the Williamsburg of Bali, if you will. Blink and you might just miss this dreamy, beachside village on the verge of going mainstream, with its maze of cool hangouts and health food cafés. Motion, Shady Shack, Crate, Peloton Supershop and Nude are a just a few. Graffiti-covered walls are adjacent to rice paddies, concrete skate bowls are as prolific as tattoo parlors or affordable day spas, like Spring, Chillax and Therapy.

The bowl at Pretty PoisonPhoto: Courtesy of Elizabeth Peng

The surf is nearly year-round (winds switch during the rainy season between November to March, when everyone heads east). With its prevalence of artisanal, vegan-friendly eats, craft kombucha breweries, co-working spaces like Dojo or Outsite, and motorbike or surf shops like Deus Ex Machina, you may be asking where you are on the space-time continuum—but rest assured, the sun will orient you as sounds of daily prayer emanate from the lava stone temples nearby, and scents of burning incense and frangipani waft through.

Daily commute through rice paddiesPhoto: Courtesy of Elizabeth Peng

On approach from Seminyak, three key beaches make up the Canggu area, starting with Berawa, Batu Bolong (or Old Man’s, largely considered the main, buzzy thoroughfare) and finally, Echo Beach. Zig-zag your way around via scooter, learning the shortcuts (the path connecting Berawa to Batu Balong is hugely convenient) and general lay of the land after dawn patrolling at Old Man’s or Tugu Left’s beginner-friendly breaks, where swell is consistently pumping regardless of tide. Danny’s local crew of surf guides from Medewi will get you sorted in no time.

Scene from CangguPhoto: Courtesy of Elizabeth Peng

Post-surf, snack on an acai-infused Nalu bowl, stretch out with yin yoga at cult favorite studios Desa Seni, The Practice, and Samadi (the market here on Sunday is great for local gifts and finds), or take intermittent naps at your private villa. Boutique hotels Tugu, The Slow and newcomer COMO Uma Canggu are all stylish options.

When each busy tropical day comes to an end, catch the epic sunset at La Laguna beach bar, The Lawn, or atop the rocks at Echo Beach—when the sun fades away from the horizon, the laid-back vibes linger.